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BIRDING TRIP REPORT:

Hides Calera, Toledo, Spain May 2025

12 to 18 May

By Stephen Burch, England

Introduction
This overseas trip, my first since 2019, represents a change in emphasis on my part. Previously, I had been keen to see as wide a range of species as possible, to expand my life list, with photography a bonus add-on. Having reached a life list milestone of 2000 in Sri Lanka in 2019, it was clear there was little point in trying for another thousand species. Also in the meantime,  I had become keener on photography in its own right.

Having spent a fair amount of time over the last few years in photo hides within reasonably easy reach of home, it seemed timely to consider something further afield, given something of an improvement in my problematic back. From looking at other photos on Flickr and videos on YouTube it was clear that photo hides are not confined to the UK, and can be found in several other European countries. The Spanish hides were of particular interest as are mainly geared to raptors, which are of special appeal to me.

Having been unsuccessful in previous attempts to see and photograph adult Goshawk in South Wales, this was a high priority for me.  Watching a YouTube video in late 2024 about Spanish hides with Iberian Lynx and Goshawk caught my attention. I contacted the YouTuber concerned only to be told that he wasn't prepared to divulge the name of the hides or any contact details as he wanted to run presumably lucrative photo workshops to these "secret" hides! No matter, a few minutes of Googling later, I found out that he must have been at Hides Calera in the Toledo region of Spain.

Contact with the owner of these hides, Jose David Gomez, soon showed that independent visits to these hides were perfectly possible, and by cutting out the middle man, no doubt considerably more cost effective and more flexible on dates. However these hides get booked up well in advance, and he had no availability until May, by which time both the Goshawk and Lynx hides were off season.

No matter though as he has plenty of other hides with different birds (and the odd mammal). The hides have a wide range of species from raptors to smaller birds such as the colourful Bee Eater and Hoopoe, both of which I was keen to get better photos of. Some of the hides were for single species while others had a range (mainly the raptor hides). So after some discussion to and fro (Jose is very busy so it can take him a week or so to reply), I settled on a provisional schedule of hides over 5 full days, started on 13 May.

General
Flights
I opted for BA from Heathrow to Madrid return. With their generous hand luggage policy, I was able to take two carry on bags, to keep the weight of each one down because of my bad back. When booking I was very surprised to find I could get club class on both flights for free in exchange for a fair fraction of my lifetime's accumulated Avios air miles! This allowed me to use fast track through security, use the BA lounges and get priority boarding. Also there were very good meals on both flights (by airline standards). The main downside was the lack of leg room - it seems the club seating on the Airbus A320 has the same pitch as economy, with the only benefit being the blocking out of the central seat This is a significant issue for me given my bad back and being so tall but at least there were no delays and the flight time isn't too long.

Arrival at Madrid is to the new terminal 4S, which requires a train ride to the main terminal 4, for baggage collection, immigration etc. I was relieved to find no queue for passport control - maybe another benefit of being at the front of the aircraft? Note that on my return journey, it was also necessary, having checked-in, to get the train again along to terminal 4S for facilities and boarding. I wasn't impressed that the aircraft was stuck out on the tarmac, requiring a coach trip to get to (with associated climbing of steps etc). Also there was a considerable delay having boarded the bus while the ground staff struggled to close the departure gate without being able to make contact with anyone else, it seemed! Teething troubles of the new construction?

Transport from Madrid airport
Hides Calera provide an option for airport transfers which I took up. This worked very well and there was no need to hire a car and grapple with Madrid traffic. In the absence of delays, the travel time to/from the airport was about one and a half hours. 

Hotel La Hacienda Del Casar
This is a basic two star hotel that most of Hides Calera clients stay at and rooms can be booked by Hides Calera. This hotel is outside the large nearby town of Talavera de la Reina, and is all on the ground floor with a limited number of rooms. This suited me well, and my room (a double) was spacious and perfectly adequately equipped with a desk and at least 3 power outlets. The daily room cleaning was good and there was only a short walk to the exit and waiting hide transport!

It was however the hotel's restaurant for lunch/dinner that was less satisfactory with a very limited variety (mostly under-cooked chicken fillets!). Usually I was the only person there. On my fourth night it was closed due to a local fiesta, so Jose showed me to Restaurante San Cristóbal which was better and by a petrol station about a 10min walk away. From then on, I tended to patronise this restaurant instead of the hotel.

As there were early starts (typically 07:00 pickup) every day, the hotel wasn't open for breakfast at that time, but there were a couple of simple places just up the road that opened early enough (somewhat variable but shortly after 06:00).

Bird site local to the hotel
One thing to add is that at lunchtime I often went for a short leg stretch given that the morning and later afternoon I was crammed into a hide. During the second of these walks, I found a surprisingly productive wetland site nearby that had, over 2-3 very brief visits, Night Heron, Purple Heron, Spoonbill, Cattle Egret, White Stork, Griffon Vulture (over), Hoopoe and Bee Eater! There were also Fan-tailed Warblers in fields en-route. No chance of getting close enough for photos though.

Hides Calera - general arrangements etc
The Hides Calera have many different hides available, some are all year, others seasonal. I had sessions in eight of them, which was almost all of those open at the time of my visit. All are within relatively easy reach of the hotel. The longest journey time was about 45 mins, with about 20 mins being more common.

The hides themselves were generally simple and compact. They nearly all featured one-way glass windows with a black net curtain between the window and the photographer. I took my own light-weight gimbal, to which I attached a mini-tripod provided by Hides Calera so it sat on the shelf provided. Floor standing tripods are not recommended.

On occasion, for action shots, I preferred to hand hold the camera & lens although this was a little difficult with the black curtain. You are forbidden to leave the hides during the session; indeed in most I was locked in - and only released when Jose or his son (also Jose!) came to collect me. Hides were either 1 or 2 person but I never had to share with anyone, perhaps because it was low season. Basic facilities are available in the form of a bottle and a (lined) bucket with lid in case of emergencies.

The hide glass was said to cause a loss of light of only 0.7 stops, but I often found myself using high ISOs for action shots, despite the frequently bright sunny conditions. So I wondered if some were blocking out more light than this. However, I can't say I could detect any major loss of image sharpness caused by the glass.

I think in the spring, April is their peak month and by early May it is low season before they close mid month until later in the summer, by which time it must be very hot! When I was there there was nobody else spending as long as 5 nights, and generally there were a few photographers coming and going all the time, with only one or two staying at the same hotel.

There were two sessions a day. One fairly early morning (about 07:00 pickup from the hotel) until late morning/midday (11:30-12:00). The afternoon/evening sessions started with pickup around 16:00 - 16:30 and ended around 20:00-20:30. Hence there was time in the middle of the day for lunch, relaxation, file backups and battery charging. Doing the same thing in the evening was a bit rushed before needing to get to bed reasonably early. All in all, it was quite a hectic schedule but doable for someone who is the wrong side of 70.

I think I was lucky with the timing of my visit as the weather had been cool and exceptionally wet prior to my arrival. This had significantly delayed the breeding of some of the birds. The Hoopoe were still busily feeding young on the nest, and the Bee Eaters were at the mating/courtship stage of their breeding cycle. I suspect normally things would be much more advanced by early/mid May and the Hoopoe for example likely to have departed.

Weather
For my previous spring visits to continental Europe, I had tended to be very fortunate with the weather and this happily continued for this trip.  Until just a few days before my arrival, it had apparently been dull, wet and cool. However I saw very little rain and mostly had warm or even hot sunny conditions with blue skies. Temperatures in the mid afternoon rose to at least the mid 20s C, but were distinctly cooler just after dawn (more like 10C). For some of the afternoon sessions, it became quite warm in the hides but this wasn't a major issue. I would imagine however that in late summer, high temperatures would be a major issue - not for me!.

Insects
Unlike some other trips, insects were hardly a problem at all. Only at the Lake Hide did I even see a mosquito and my repellant worked just fine!

Photos
All the pics shown below were taken with my latest Canon mirror-less equipment - Canon EOS R5 Mk II with the Canon 100-500 f4.5-7.1 lens. I also had the RF x1.4 TC with me, which I used from time to time. The great flexibility of this camera/lens combination was ideal, and I didn't miss my EF 500f4 lens which was just too heavy for me to take with all the other gear as well.

Hides
I now go through the different hides I used in chronological order. I give a selection of the photos for each hide.

Click to enlarge any of the photos below. There is a also a separate galley with additional photos.

Valley Hide
My first morning, a British couple and I were scheduled at the Valley Hide, which is high up overlooking a steep valley below with impressive snow capped mountains as the backdrop. The recent wet weather had made the normal track impassable so there was a 500m walk in/out to/from the hide. For all the other hides, there was no walking at all, as the tracks went right up to them.

The star performers here are vultures - mainly Griffon but also a few Black. There were also some foxes around, and masses of Black Kite. Jose also said there were often Spanish Imperial Eagles in the distance, which few people saw as they were concentrating on the nearer stuff. Forewarned, I picked up the eagle and got some distant but atmospheric shots of it against the mountain backdrop - see below.

All the birds come in very quickly to the large amount of meat offered to them at the start of the session, producing a frenzy of activity. Unfortunately the food disappeared very quickly and the vultures and other raptors then drifted off leaving a rather uneventful remainder to the session.  

Distant views of my first Spanish Imperial Eagle! Closer Griffon Vulture
Griffon Vulture shortly before it departs Black Vulture about to take off.
One of the Red Foxes

Bee Eater Hide
Bee Eaters were one of my priorities for this trip so I arranged in advance to have two (afternoon) sessions in the hide.  This proved to be a good choice because of the differing conditions during the two afternoons. For the first there was a lot of activity and the wind was coming from behind the hide, so the birds were landing and perching forwards, towards the camera. Conditions were however warm but largely overcast. For the second afternoon, there was more sun and the wind was more variable, allowing some nice perched shots with the birds presenting their colourful backs to the camera. There was less activity on the first afternoon.

This hide was a complete contrast to the Valley Hide of my first morning, being located in a grassy field in the middle of breeding colony of Bee Eaters. The hides here were particularly compact and the perches were quite low down with the long grass coming in front of the birds on some of the perches. This wasn't ideal at all in my view and for the second visit a fair amount of trimming was done before we were installed in the hides. A bonus was that, due to weather-delayed season, there was plenty of courtship behaviour, with frequent food passes and mating

The high level of activity on the first afternoon meant that I spent a lot of time trying for flight shots using the wonderful pre-capture option on my R5 Mk II. For the second visit I had the x1.4TC on the whole time and concentrated more on perched shots, especially when the birds were backwards on.

Bee Eater in flight Bee Eater incoming.
Bee Eater food pass Bee Eaters mating
Male Bee Eater landing next to its mate A pair of Bee Eaters showing off their colourful backs

Hoopoe Hide
Hoopoe was the other priority for me with two (morning) sessions booked in advance. This hide was sited close to the nest which wasn't in a great location for photography - in shade, very low down near the base of a tree. From the hide I used both times, the nest entrance wasn't visible but there was an adjacent low branch that had been placed very close to it. As well as his branch being in shade the whole morning, the background vegetation was very close to it and often very bright if it was sunny.

There was another perch placed further from the nest in a much better location photographically. But neither of the birds ever landed on it, although apparently it had been used regularly only a few days earlier. At least the visits were frequent right through the morning, although the interval increased somewhat as time wore on.

With only one real perched shot available, I spent most of time trying for incoming or outgoing flight shots which weren't easy!

Hoopoe just after with crest up Hoopoe departing in a small patch of sun
Hoopoe incoming Hoopoe departing

Iberian Grey Shrike Hide
My afternoon session in this hide was quite warm but productive. On arrival some food was put out, and a pair of these lovely shrikes appeared almost immediately. They then quickly cleared the food and departed. Subsequently there were a few brief return visits - presumably the birds were checking to see if there was any more food (there wasn't).

Once again I used the R5 II's pre-capture a fair amount in order to try to get some flight shots.

Iberian Grey Shrike at its "larder" Iberian Grey Shrike departing

Spanish Imperial Eagle Hide
This hide is one of Hides Calera's headline hides and is situated high up with spectacular views of distant snow capped mountains. Unlike the Valley Hide, the approach track led right up to the hide.

This hide offers the opportunity to photograph mature adult Spanish Imperial Eagles, which are rare and have a very limited range only in Spain. At this time of year, the female is on the nest and only the male comes in. It appears to be a somewhat timid individual and only stayed briefly before being chased off by the much smaller Buzzard! Apparently outside of the breeding season, both birds come in and are more confident and stay longer. For my session, the male perched in a pine some distance away and came closer just once in flight.

Other birds here included numerous Black Kites, Buzzard and the odd Azure-winged Magpie. There were also very brief visits from Egyptian Mongoose, which made for challenging photography. 

Spanish Imperial Eagle approaching Spanish Imperial Eagle coming in (but it didn't land so close)
Black Kite landing Egyptian Mongoose making off with some meat.

Steppe Raptor Hide
Another high profile hide, which was situated in flat grassland but with a distant mountain view. A nice "tree" used by the raptors had been carefully positioned in the foreground.  The raptors here comprised a pair of sub-adult Spanish Imperial Eagles, Marsh Harrier and the inevitable numerous Black Kites. I was also fortunate in that grass cutting in adjacent fields probably brought in some species not normally seen here, including White Stork, Bee Eater and Cattle Egret.

There were good opportunities for photos of the birds both on the ground and in flight. The Bee Eater perched on the hide roof and then did a sortie from there, which allowed me to get a nice, head-on incoming shot with the bird remarkably close!

Somewhat unusually there were good levels of activity through most of the morning, so I ended up with a very large number of shots for that session (>7000), which was by far my most productive session of this trip, allowing a range of settled and flight shots. 

Sub-adult Spanish Imperial Eagle coming in to land Sub-adult Spanish Imperial Eagle landed
Both sub-adult Spanish Imperial Eagles with mountain backdrop Male Marsh Harrier on the ground
Female/immature Marsh Harrier on the ground Black Kite in flight
Bee Eater incoming! White Stork in fluight

Lake Hide
Unlike all the others, the hide by the lake was a portable hide, positioned right at the side of the lake. However with all the recent rain, there were apparently many water sources around, and hence the water birds were not concentrated at this one. Hence it was a pretty quiet session, enlivened by only a White Stokrk that came stomping through the place, coming remarkably close to me at one point - clearly oblivious of my presence. Only about 30min before my due collection time, three Black-winged Stilts appeared quite a distance off. One then came moderately close but only briefly.

White Stork approaching - it came much closer! Black-winged Stilt

Azure-winged Magpie Hide
My final session was in this hide for Azure-winged Magpie which was in a very rural setting. The magpies were both numerous and kept on coming in almost to the end of session, when a herd of cows wandered into the area, bringing proceedings to a close, before I was "rescued" by Jose!

The other issue here was the extremely bright background, lit by full sun, with most of the perches in deep shape - not a great combination in my view. However, as the session wore on, some of the perches also came into full sun, making things easier. These birds were also amazingly fast and difficult to get onto. Once again I had some success with pre-capture for departing flight shots. 

Azure-winged Magpie in sun. Azure-winged Magpie departing. 

Summary
This first overseas trips based on photo hides was very successful and my packed 5-day schedule produced several photos that I am pleased with and generally met my expectations.

Hides Calera provided a hassle-free way of getting close up with a range of species that are seldom/never available in the UK. The wide range of hides were mostly well sited from the photographic perspective, with the sun behind the hides for most of the morning or afternoon sessions.  The hides varied in their productivity but that it was to be expected. The sessions in the raptor hides (Valley, Spanish Imperial Eagle and Steppe) were the highlights of the trip.

Over all sessions, I took a huge number of photos (>40,000) and my newly acquired light weight laptop and 4 Tb external SSD drive for backup worked very well with high transfer speeds of about 500 Mb/s for the 4000-7000+ images from each session. In fact my older 4 Tb HDD for a second backup was the limiting factor, taking almost five times for file transfers as long as the SSD.


© All pictures copyright Stephen Burch

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